Amazing Surfing Stories: Tales of Incredible Waves & Remarkable Riders Hardcover - 2012 - 1st Edition

From the rear cover

HIGHER THAN A HIGH FIVE

Machado saw his friend and, skimming the surface of the sea, put out his left hand. At the same time, Slater instinctively did likewise. The pair high fived in the middle of the biggest surf contest in the world... The roar of the crowd could be heard for miles.

OH MY GOD (TAKE 1)

Hamilton recalls hearing him shouting: "Don't let go!," and reckons other voices were also screaming that discretion was the better part of valour. But Hamilton was always going to let go.

DR SARAH AND THE MEANING OF SURFING

How blessed were we, to have a flawless left-hander to ourselves at a break that would normally be overrun? And what a break, too: Spot G is backed by granite cliffs, its water is crystal clear, dolphins and seals are regulars in the line-up and the ambience is other-worldly and ancient.

ED'S LEFT Ed barely gave thought to the meaning of this particular session. The whoops of the onlookers amped him as much as the waves. But then it dawned on him: had anyone ever ridden a wave here before?

From the jacket flap

HIGHER THAN A HIGH FIVE

Machado saw his friend and, skimming the surface of the sea, put out his left hand. At the same time, Slater instinctively did likewise. The pair high fived in the middle of the biggest surf contest in the world... The roar of the crowd could be heard for miles.

OH MY GOD (TAKE 1)

Hamilton recalls hearing him shouting: "Don't let go!," and reckons other voices were also screaming that discretion was the better part of valour. But Hamilton was always going to let go.

DR SARAH AND THE MEANING OF SURFING

How blessed were we, to have a flawless left-hander to ourselves at a break that would normally be overrun? And what a break, too: Spot G is backed by granite cliffs, its water is crystal clear, dolphins and seals are regulars in the line-up and the ambience is other-worldly and ancient.

ED'S LEFT Ed barely gave thought to the meaning of this particular session. The whoops of the onlookers amped him as much as the waves. But then it dawned on him: had anyone ever ridden a wave here before?